Archive for July, 2009

Operate Mini Heavy Equipment At Home How to Guide:

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What will you do when disaster strikes around your home and garden?

Call in the professionals or do it yourself?

Recently our friends over at Backyard Oasis posted a great article about their very own backyard disaster. Luckily they have friends and family with access to the right equipment to take care of such a situation and they will be fine.

Their situation dealing with mother nature could happen to anybody and the need for operating mini heavy equipment at your home may become a reality someday for any of our readers.

This got us thinking that some of you might be interested in information on How to Operate Mini Heavy Equipment yourself. Once again, we turned to the Wiki and this is what we found for you.

Hope it helps and we wish the best of luck to the gang over at Backyard Oasis with their disaster!

How to Operate a Mini Excavator

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Mini excavators were considered toys by heavy equipment operators a few decades ago when they were first introduced, but they have earned the respect of construction utility contractors and site work professionals with their ease of operation, small footprint, low cost, and precise operation. Available for homeowners to use from rental businesses, they can make easy work out of a weekend landscaping or utility project. Here are the basics for operating a mini .

Steps

  1. Select a machine for your project. Minis come in a variety of sizes, from super compact weighing less than 4000 pounds, to heavyweights that almost squeeze into the standard excavator class. If you are simply digging a small ditch for a DIY irrigation project, or your space is limited, go for the smallest size available at your tool rental business. For large landscaping projects, a 3 or 3.5 ton machine like a Bobcat 336 maybe better suited for the job.
  2. Compare the rental cost versus the labor cost before investing in a weekend rental. Typically, mini excavators rent for about 150 dollars (US) per day, plus delivery, pick up, fuel charges, and insurance, so for a weekend project you will be spending about 250-300 dollars(US).
  3. Check out the range of machines at your rental business, and ask if they do demonstrations and allow customers to become familiar with the machine on their premises. Many large equipment rental businesses have a maintenance area where they will allow you to get the feel of the machine with some experienced supervision.
  4. Look over the operator's manual to be sure to be familiar with the location and exact description of the controls. This guide references most standard minis, including Kobelco, Bobcat, IHI, Case, and Kubota, but there are slight differences, even between these manufacturers.
  5. Look at warning labels and stickers posted around the machine for other specific warnings or instructions on the particular machine you are going to rent or use. You will also notice maintenance information, specification charts, and other pertinent information as well as a manufacturer's tag for reference when ordering parts with the machine's serial number and information regarding where it was made.
  6. Have the excavator delivered, or arrange to pick it up from the rental business if you have access to a truck with a heavy duty trailer. One advantage of a mini excavator is that it can be towed on a trailer using a standard pickup truck, provided the gross weight of the machine and trailer do not exceed the truck's capacity.
  7. Find a level, clear area to try the machine out in. Minis are stable, with a very good balance and fairly wide footprint for their size, but they can be overturned, so start out on firm, level ground.
  8. Take a look around the machine to see if there is any loose or damaged parts that will make operating it hazardous. Look for oil leaks, other fluids dripping, loose control cables and linkages, damaged tracks, or other potential problems. Find your fire extinguisher location and check the engine lubricant and coolant levels. These are standard operating procedures for using any piece of construction equipment, so make a habit of giving any machine you operate, from a lawnmower to a bulldozer a once over before cranking it.
  9. Mount your machine. You will find the arm rest/control assembly on the left (from the operator's seat) side of the machine flips up and out of the way to access the seat. Pull the lever (or handle) on the front end (not the joystick on top) up, and the whole thing will swing up and back. Grab the handhold attached to the rollover frame, step on the track, and pull yourself up to the deck, then swing in and have a seat. After being seated, pull the left armrest back down, and push the release lever to lock it into place.
  10. Sit in the operator's seat and look around to familiarize yourself with the controls, gauges, and operator's restraint system. You should see the ignition key (or keypad, for digital engine starting systems) on the console on the right side, or overhead on your right. Make a mental note to keep an eye on the engine temperature, oil pressure, and fuel level while operating the machine.
  11. Grip the joysticks, and move them around a bit, to get the feel of their motion. These sticks control the bucket/boom assembly, also known as the hoe(hence the name trackhoe for any track carriaged excavator) and the machine rotating function, which swings the upper part (or cab) of the machine around when operated. These sticks will always return to a neutral position when they are released, stopping any movement which is caused by their use.
  12. Look down between your legs, and you will see two long steel rods with handles attached on top. These are the drive/steer controls. Each controls the rotation of the track on the side it is located on, and pushing them forward causes the machine to move forward. Push an individual stick forward will cause the machine to turn in the opposite direction, pulling a stick backward will turn the machine in the direction of the stick pulled, and counter rotating (pushing one stick while pulling the other) the tracks will cause the machine to spin in one place. The farther your push or pull these controls, the faster the machine will move, so when it is time to crank up and go, operated these controls slowly and smoothly.
  13. Look down on the floor boards, and you will see two more, less used controls. On the left, you will see either a small pedal or a button operated with your left foot, this is the high speed control, used to boost the drive pump and speed the machine's travel when moving it from one location to another. This feature should only be used on smooth, level terrain in a straight path. On the right side is a pedal covered with a hinged steel plate. When you flip up the cover, you will see a two way pedal. This pedal pivots the machine's hoe left or right, so the machine doesn't have to swing to reach the location you need the bucket in.
  14. Look on the right side, in front of the instrument cluster and you will see two more levers or control sticks. The rear one is the throttle, which increases in the engine's RPMs, usually the further back it is pulled, the faster the engine speed. The larger handle is the front blade (or dozer blade) control. Pulling this lever raises the blade, pushing the handle lowers it. The blade can be used for grading, pushing debris, or filling holes, just like a bulldozer on a very small scale, but is also used to stabilize the machine while digging with the hoe.
  15. Start up your engine. With the engine running, you must be careful to avoid accidentally bumping any of the control sticks previously described, since any movement of any of these controls will cause an instant response from your machine.
  16. Start out maneuvering your machine. Make sure the front blade and the hoe boom are both raised, and push the steering control levers forward. If you are not planning to do any grading work with the machine, using the dozer blade while in motion, you can control one stick with each hand. The sticks are located very close together so they can both be gripped with one hand, which is then twisted to push or pull the sticks while in motion, allowing your right hand to be free to raise or lower the dozer blade, so that it can be kept at the right height for the work you are doing.
  17. Walk the machine around a bit, turning and backing it to get used to the handling and speed of it. Always watch for hazards as you move the machine, since the boom may be farther away than you think, and can cause serious damage if it hits something.
  18. Find a suitable place in your practice area to try out the digging function of the machine. The joysticks on the armrests control the boom, pivot, and bucket motion, and they can be operated in one of two modes, commonly called backhoe or trackhoe mode, which is selected with a switch behind or on the left side of the seat on the floor board. Usually, these settings are labelled A or F, and the descriptions of the stick operations in this article are in the A mode.
  19. Lower the dozer blade pushing forward the control handle on the front of the console on your right until it is firmly on the ground. Grip both joysticks, being careful not to move them until you are ready. You will want to start out by raising and lowering the main (inboard) boom section first. This is done by pulling the right joystick straight back to raise it, pushing it forward to lower it. Moving the same joystick right or left either pulls the bucket in (scooping)by moving the stick to the left, or throws the bucket out (dumping) by moving it to the right. Raise and lower the boom a few times, and roll the bucket in and out to see how they feel.
  20. Move the left joystick forward, and the secondary (outboard) boom segment will swing up (away from you). Pulling the stick in will swing the outer boom back toward you. A normal combination for scooping dirt from a hole is to lower the bucket into the soil, then pull back the left boom to pull the bucket through the soil toward you, while pulling the right stick to the left to scoop earth into the bucket.
  21. Move the left joystick to your left (being sure the bucket is clear of the ground, and there are no obstacles on your left). This will cause the complete cab of the machine to rotate on top of the tracks to the left. Move the stick slowly, since the machine will rotate pretty suddenly, a motion that takes some getting used to. Push the left joystick back to the right, and the machine will pivot to the right.
  22. Keep practicing with these controls until you have a good feel for what they do. Ideally, with enough practice, you will move each control without consciously thinking about it, focusing on watching the bucket do its job. When you feel confident with your ability, maneuver the machine into position, and get to work.

Tips

  • Mini excavators are thought of as a digging machine, but they can be useful for grading, lifting heavy items, and compacting a subgrade as well. The longer you use the machine, and the more experienced you become, the more tasks you will find can be done with it.
  • Be aware that even though a mini excavator is relatively small and light in weight, it will damage surfaces it is driven on, including grass and hot asphalt pavements.

Warnings

  • Call before you dig! Call the local utility locating company to obtain permits before digging!
  • Never disturb sensitive areas such as wetlands, erodable soils, or endangered wildlife habitat.
  • Operate mini excavators with extreme caution, they can lift hundreds of pounds, and create thousands of pounds of directional torque, so any accident can be deadly.
  • Never operate a mini on unstable soil or steep grades. Keep in mind that because the machine operates on tracks, rather than wheels, it will rock or pivot when crossing obstacles, which can result in it dropping suddenly as the balance point is crossed.

Related wikiHows

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Operate a Mini Excavator. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

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The key to survival is to remain calm and take a few simple steps to prevent the rapid spread of toxins in the Lymphatic system.

copperhead-snake-photo-by-David-Schaible

First and foremost, try to avoid them completely and get to know the snakes common for your area. The best thing you can do is to familiarize yourself with photos of the snakes, (venomous and non-venomous,) that are known to frequent in your area.

For us, we have 5 or 6 to be most concerned about but for some reason the copperhead seems to be the most prevalent for some reason. Take the time to carefully inspect your property. Look for places that allow them to be well hidden. Keeping your grass cut short, and reducing the amount of artificial cover like rubbish, or old junk, or lots of boards or shingle roofing will keep the number of places snakes like to hide at a minimum.

Copperhead-Snake-Photo-by-David-Schaible

If you do encounter a venomous snake and in the unfortunate case that you are bitten, here are a few tips on surviving a venomous snake bite.

1. Stay calm. This will save your life. If you’re flipping out, your heart beats faster and you increase the flow of blood to the affected area, which will increase the amount of toxin able to find its way into your tissues.

2. Don’t wait for symptoms to kick in before going to the emergency room. An untreated venomous snakebite that injected venom is a serious medical condition that can even kill a person depending on the condition.

3. You should always be aware of what the common venomous snakes in your region look like. You really don’t need to take the time to try and kill or capture it as you really don’t need to take the snake with you. Here’s why, anti-venom these days is polyvalent – that is, they are effective against multiple venoms.

4. Although a venomous snakebite is a serious and sometimes life-threatening situation, they usually occur well within reach of a hospital. In the event you are several hours away from the nearest hospital, stay standing, stay hydrated, stay calm, and use a cell phone to call emergency responders. REMEMBER: Modern cell phones have triangulation abilities to help locate the caller.

5. Some venomous snakebite wounds are shallow ones which you should let the initial wound naturally bleed out. More blood will come out at first because there are typically anticoagulants in the venom. After bleeding out, wash the wound with soap and water. This will help clean the area and helps avoid infection. NOTE: Soap and water does not get rid of the poison in the body. You still need to go to a hospital. In the event that the a snakebite is deep enough to hit a vien or excessive bleeding occurs, immediately apply pressure to the wound and call emergency responders.

6. You’ve probably seen many movies showing someone with a snake bite making a “X” incision over the fang injuries or sucking out the toxin! DON’T ATTEMPT THIS!! You will most likely cause excessive bleeding and/or additional necrosis (tissue death) and/or further infection from the germs in your mouth or surrounding environment. Keeping A SNAKE BITE KIT in or around your home or garden might not be a bad idea if you are in a very rural area and feel like you are WELL versed and very familiar with such a practice but even so, DO NOT AVOID GOING TO THE HOSPITAL!

7. Something else that is poorly portrayed especially in the movies is the use a tourniquet. While certain medical conditions still are helped with proper application of a tourniquet, these are few in number and it is not recommended for snake bites. A tourniquet CAN cause necrosis and possibly eventuate the need for amputation of the affected area! Rather than using a tourniquet, a constriction band, such as an ACE bandage, may be used.

In conclusion, although getting bit by a venomous snake is a very frightening thing, the most important thing to remember is DON’T PANIC. Reports show that in the United States and Australia especially, there are few snakes that are deadly. Keep your calm about you and seek medical assistance and you will most likely survive even though you will probably be in a lot of pain.

As with all accidents, the best treatment is prevention!

Large-Copperhead- Photo-by-David-SchaibleThis is one of three copperheads that we encountered all in the same day during a birthday party for my daughter. All three were in or around the backyard and garden. This one, the biggest was almost 30 inches in length!

Here’s some further tips:

* Know where you are going and what you can expect to encounter. Snakes, like almost all wild animals, seek to avoid you.
* In the woods, make enough noise to warn the snake you are coming.
* Watch where you are walking or reaching.
* Use your sense of smell, snakes most usually put off a unique odor, so learn to avoid it.
* When you encounter a venomous snake, don’t approach it and back away very slowly. Reports show that 80% to 95% of all venomous snakebites occur because of intentional approach.

P.S. Anyone interested in a copperhead – head or hatband? Just let me know…I may be able to arrange just that!

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